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Gimbal for the Pocket 4K

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  • #16
    I've been working with the Crane 3 LAB on some shots. A whole different world.

    47369613_10155098946157168_464964045544357888_n.jpg

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    • #17
      This looks interesting:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xDB383nzwA



      https://www.steadycross.com/

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      • #18
        @simonbros: I would advise against using IS on any gimbal, they will easily start fighting each other.
        It’s either or. A gimbal which is working correctly, i. e. having no micro jitters, shouldn’t need lens IS.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Nomad View Post
          @simonbros: I would advise against using IS on any gimbal, they will easily start fighting each other.
          It’s either or. A gimbal which is working correctly, i. e. having no micro jitters, shouldn’t need lens IS.
          Thanks for the heads up! If that's the case it'll save me the hassle of upgrading lenses.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Nomad View Post
            @simonbros: I would advise against using IS on any gimbal, they will easily start fighting each other.
            It’s either or. A gimbal which is working correctly, i. e. having no micro jitters, shouldn’t need lens IS.
            I've heard this before, but what's the science behind it? I feel like if there's nothing for the lens to stabilize, it just... won't stabilize. It's not like it's *expecting* micro jitters. If it's set up on a tripod, it's not going to fight the non-movement, is it?

            If anything, I feel like it might cut down on the up & down micro jitters you get from footsteps. But I guess it depends on the lens and the mechanics behind its stabilization. I have the Tamron 24-70 G2, which preforms dang well handheld. I'll have to try it out on the Moza Air 2.

            Anything (visually) to look out for in particular?

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            • #21
              @simonbros: I would advise against using IS on any gimbal, they will easily start fighting each other.
              It’s either or. A gimbal which is working correctly, i. e. having no micro jitters, shouldn’t need lens IS.
              Is there any real world evidence to prove this one way or the other?
              Filmmaker - Author
              https://jgiambrone.wordpress.com/

              Youtube

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              • #22
                Originally posted by vonner View Post
                I've heard this before, but what's the science behind it? I feel like if there's nothing for the lens to stabilize, it just... won't stabilize. It's not like it's *expecting* micro jitters. If it's set up on a tripod, it's not going to fight the non-movement, is it?
                Actually, this can happen with older IS lenses. When the system is turned on and the camera is perfectly still, you might see small shifts in the frame as the system works. Newer designs have tripod auto-sensing capability and they shouldn't fight a tripod.

                But when it comes to deliberately moving your camera through space (handheld or on a gimbal for example), what will often happen—even with newer IS designs—is that the lens will try to constantly stabilise the frame and that can lead to micro stutter: the lens will hold the frame but as soon as the camera moves beyond the limits of the system, the lens will let go and grab a new hold.

                For this reason, some lenses (typically longer focal lengths) will have a switch to pause horizontal stabilisation while keeping vertical (e.g. for panning with cars or birds).

                With a well functioning gimbal it might be best do shut IS off. Some lenses are worse offenders than others.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Joe Giambrone View Post
                  Is there any real world evidence to prove this one way or the other?
                  My experience is that IS on a gimbal sometimes helps, sometimes not. Depends on many factors (lens, movement, ground ect) and I mostly test both as it's hard to tell beforehand which it will be.

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                  • #24
                    Can I suggest getting this thread back on topic (the IS stuff is a bit of a tangent).

                    Does anyone have any suggestions for a gimble for the Pocket 4K that doesn't have that ubiquitous up-down bounce when you walk? (Most vendors try to hide the bounce in their promo videos by using slow motion, which is annoying. I don't need a gimble for slo-mo; I need it for unobtrusive, smooth motion in real time.)

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by xrayspecs View Post
                      Can I suggest getting this thread back on topic (the IS stuff is a bit of a tangent).

                      Does anyone have any suggestions for a gimble for the Pocket 4K that doesn't have that ubiquitous up-down bounce when you walk? (Most vendors try to hide the bounce in their promo videos by using slow motion, which is annoying. I don't need a gimble for slo-mo; I need it for unobtrusive, smooth motion in real time.)
                      Dream on. The operator, not the gimbal, reduces the bounce.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by xrayspecs View Post
                        Does anyone have any suggestions for a gimble for the Pocket 4K that doesn't have that ubiquitous up-down bounce when you walk?

                        https://gopro-gimbal.com/how-to-walk-with-a-gimbal/

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                        • #27
                          Based on his sample footage, that youtubber isn't skilled at it. The stuff about keeping it close to (or locked to? he's not clear ) the body is questionable.

                          It's only a matter of time before a manufacturer comes up with the 4th axis, and I think DJI did offer a product at some point for one of it's small camera/gimbals, but then it's no longer compact, light or easily managed.

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                          • #28
                            If anyone wants to purchase the Moza Air 2 and the iFocus Motor, send me a PM. I can give you a good deal. It balances on the Moza Air 2 if you use the Smallrig 2203 cage. IMG_4646 2.jpg

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Nomad View Post
                              @simonbros: I would advise against using IS on any gimbal, they will easily start fighting each other.
                              It’s either or. A gimbal which is working correctly, i. e. having no micro jitters, shouldn’t need lens IS.
                              I don't know about "shouldn't", but in practice, the more camera stabilization, lens and body, the smoother the footage.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by jrd View Post
                                I don't know about "shouldn't", but in practice, the more camera stabilization, lens and body, the smoother the footage.
                                Not really. They fight with each other. That's why you should always turn off the lens stabilization if it's on a tripod. That's why the iPhone has issues on the DJI mobile. You get micro jitters because the iPhone IS is fighting against the gimbal.

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