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  • #31
    this is the first time I've seen or dealt with the 12v lock on the camera, how do I remove the cable from the camera? I don't have my camera with me yet so I can't check. Do you pull back the shield or do you have to turn anything

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    • #32
      Originally posted by dougfunnieyo View Post
      this is the first time I've seen or dealt with the 12v lock on the camera, how do I remove the cable from the camera? I don't have my camera with me yet so I can't check. Do you pull back the shield or do you have to turn anything
      pull back on the shield and pull straight out.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by tmronin View Post
        pull back on the shield and pull straight out.
        thanks

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        • #34
          I am also searching for a Power solution.
          I want to use the LP-E6 dummy batteries because I donīt
          want cables hanging out from the left side. But Iīve heard some
          people killed their Pocket 4k camera with a dummy battery.
          But it may be because the input was 12 volt. But I am not 100% sure.


          Iīve seen three different NP-F to LP-E6 options.

          dummy.jpg

          A. Output 7.4 - 8.2 Volts
          B. Outputs 7.2 Volts
          C. Outputs 7.4 Volts

          The Original LP-E6 Canon Battery has 7.2 Volts 1800mAh 13 (Wh)
          I got some Baxxtars and other brands. All 7,2 Volts, 2040mAh (14.7 Wh)

          And NP-Fs:
          - Bluemax 7.4 Volts, 2400mAh, 17.8 Wh
          - Baxxter 7.2 Volts, 3100mAh, 22.3 Wh
          - Bluemanx 7.4 Volts, 4000mAh, 29.6 Wh

          So I got 7.4 an some 7.2 NP-s. Should I get the NP-F to LP-E6 Plate with 7.2v output, or 7.4v output?
          Does it make any difference? Will I destroy slowly the camera if I output 7.4 Volt instead of 7.2 Volt?
          Or is 7.4 better (because more juice?) And can I run a 7.2 Volt NP-f battery and output it via a 7.4volt plate?
          (Yes, I am pretty dumb when it come to voltage and electricity. )

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          • #35
            I got myself a V-Mount battery and the official cable pack - when connecting the camera using the D-Tap it just reads AC - no voltage. The camera just shuts off at some random point without warning. Granted, I recorded for more than 4 hours (in HD) and the camera was on for about 4.5 hours - but it's still kind of troubling that it just turns off and there's no real notice.

            Is this because I bought a relatively budget V-Mount battery - as in, do more expensive ones somehow report the voltage instead of just "AC" - or is this just a quirk of the camera I have to live with?

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            • #36
              Originally posted by okb812 View Post
              I got myself a V-Mount battery and the official cable pack - when connecting the camera using the D-Tap it just reads AC - no voltage. The camera just shuts off at some random point without warning. Granted, I recorded for more than 4 hours (in HD) and the camera was on for about 4.5 hours - but it's still kind of troubling that it just turns off and there's no real notice.

              Is this because I bought a relatively budget V-Mount battery - as in, do more expensive ones somehow report the voltage instead of just "AC" - or is this just a quirk of the camera I have to live with?
              Well, the camera's reading it as an AC input and no voltage would be shown. However most V locks have an LED level indicator somewhere on them which is a pretty standard way of checking your level.

              PS. You could also have a canon battery in the camera that it would switch to once the V lock is drained, it would no longer show "AC" and you could change to another V lock without having to power down.

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              • #37
                They are all the same. 7.2V or 7.4V is just a average voltage mark. Sony type battery use dual 18650 cells, Canon type battery use smaller length cells.

                Actual Li-ion battery cell voltage output varies from 4.2V (full charge) to 2.8V (full discharge) or (8.4V to 5.6V for dual battery cells). Protection circuit board usually turns battery off at 3-3.4V to avoid quick degradation. Battery life and capacity depends of battery cell brand and type used inside. Branded Sony/Canon type batteries use quality cells made by Sanyo/Panasonic, Sony, Samsung or LG) and quality protection board electronics circuits. Lower priced batteries use crappy no name cells and circuit chips that easy to burn. Last time some new inexpensive China manufacturers calm that they use quality Japan made cells inside.
                P.S. None of the battery manufacturers used highest possible capacity cells in their products. DIY 18650 cell pack will always outperform Sony battery in price and capacity, but it is not too easy to build proper user friendly and rugged enclosure for that type of cells.

                mAh, and Wh also very subjective values and highly depends of battery load. If you power high wattage and low wattage device and each time measure real life battery capacity you got completely different values. Also different battery cells designed in different way: some chemistry adjusted to provide longer life with higher wattage output, but some designed for longer life with low wattage devices and don't holds well high wattage devices like heaters, power lights or electronic cigarettes.





                Last edited by shijan; 01-11-2019, 08:19 AM.
                All my custom made accessories for BMMCC/BMMSC now available here https://lavky.com/radioproektor/

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Amoore View Post
                  Well, the camera's reading it as an AC input and no voltage would be shown. However most V locks have an LED level indicator somewhere on them which is a pretty standard way of checking your level.

                  PS. You could also have a canon battery in the camera that it would switch to once the V lock is drained, it would no longer show "AC" and you could change to another V lock without having to power down.
                  Thanks - the LED level indicators are not that indicative since I only have 4 LEDs - I suppose I'd have to go for a more premium one which shows info on an LCD screen if I really want to know.

                  Either way, it's just a quirk and I can live with it or work around it

                  I'll have to check the LP-E6 battery in the camera though, because I did read somewhere that the camera would drain the battery prior to switching over to AC. Might be a wrong report, but that's why I hadn't tried it. Will test it again this weekend - that would of course be an ideal situation.

                  Thanks!

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                  • #39
                    Thanks shijan for the explaination!
                    As long as I donīt output 12 Volt or more into the LP-E6 Camera slot
                    it should work fine with a NP-F to LP-E6 dummy battery.
                    Or any concerns about using those NP-F to LP-E6 Dummy battery solutions?

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by okb812 View Post
                      I'll have to check the LP-E6 battery in the camera though, because I did read somewhere that the camera would drain the battery prior to switching over to AC. Might be a wrong report, but that's why I hadn't tried it. Will test it again this weekend - that would of course be an ideal situation.
                      No, the opposite is true. The camera will use the external battery to charge the internal battery until it is full and will only draw on the internal battery once the external is no longer supplying power.

                      Think about it. The camera has no idea what is connected to the 12v input. Whether it's a v-lock battery or the AC power adapter, it appears the same to the camera. However it behaves with the AC adapter is exactly how it will behave with your v-lock battery.
                      Pocketluts: Purpose-built LUTs for the Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 4K
                      Pocketluts Store

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                      • #41
                        Just found nice reply on other forum
                        Dummy battery is easy way but not very safe. If power regulator fail it will burn camera.
                        V-mount a bit safer because DC port can receive 12 то 20Volts usualy, and Vmount battery can output only 16.8V max. So Weipu6 to D-tap is good choice )
                        Probably single Sony NP-F plate with passive dummy battery is the simplest, safest and less expensive power solution available right now.
                        All my custom made accessories for BMMCC/BMMSC now available here https://lavky.com/radioproektor/

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                        • #42
                          Thanks. I am thinking the same. NP-F are 7.4 / 7.2 Volt. Same as LP-E6.
                          And if you are using F960 / F970 you will get enough juice for maybe 2 hours and more.

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                          • #43
                            Not the cheapest option, but I like the Hawk Woods Gripper 100Wh. It just clicks on to 15mm rods and powers the camera for hours. The charger is also significantly smaller than most v-lock chargers.

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                            • #44
                              Public Service Announcement: ;-)

                              At the point I realized that my normal, go-to rig would have at least 3 items to power, I decided to finally (finally) stop futzing around with various different oddball batteries and USB this and that's and go v-lock:

                              https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.a.../1AW0TTAGVFD29

                              That's less than $300 to power camera, 7" monitor and follow focus motor for an entire shooting day. 2 d-tap, 2-USB, 12v and 7v. When I add up all the money I've spent on "cheap" batteries and chargers that I'm now going to chuck out the window, it comes to more than $300. I love a bargain, but this will be in my kit longer than this camera.
                              Pocketluts: Purpose-built LUTs for the Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 4K
                              Pocketluts Store

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by joe12south View Post
                                Public Service Announcement: ;-)

                                At the point I realized that my normal, go-to rig would have at least 3 items to power, I decided to finally (finally) stop futzing around with various different oddball batteries and USB this and that's and go v-lock:

                                https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.a.../1AW0TTAGVFD29

                                That's less than $300 to power camera, 7" monitor and follow focus motor for an entire shooting day. 2 d-tap, 2-USB, 12v and 7v. When I add up all the money I've spent on "cheap" batteries and chargers that I'm now going to chuck out the window, it comes to more than $300. I love a bargain, but this will be in my kit longer than this camera.
                                I know it's only nine days since you posted this but can you already share some experiences? Thank you!
                                ___________________________
                                www.gernemehrfilm.de
                                www.berlin3k5.de/

                                Will trade my as-new BMPCC 4K v.1.0 for two new BMPCC 4K V.2.0

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